Yeah, sure- you just won’t be able to use both at the same time. Trying to run the second program will fail because the app won’t be able to bind to the port.
Ports are like library books- two people can’t check the same book out at once.
So just run only one at a time and you’ll be fine!
OpenGL version, CUDA core computation, and DirectX are all factors of the GPU that’s soldered onto the motherboard. An upgraded laptop would be necessary to change these.
My temps are fine (70-80 ° Celsius)
I am hoping these are temps while games are running, they are fine for that, but very bad idle temps.
How hot is your mobo’s chipset getting? Sounds like the behavior of a melting chipset. I would imagine that if the chipset is just sitting at 90+ C then a replacement mobo is the course of action.
How are they sorted in whatever app you’re using? ID3 tags or filename, or some other way?
Are the ISP router and the Eero router assigning different IP addresses, or is the DHCP table the same for both devices?
While you could probably try to take it out of there, my guess is that it’s soldered onto the wires themselves. It’s certainly possible, but may just be easier to order a new cell - just check that the connector looks identical, as they are likely not as “Universal” as this one claims they are.
Chrome does not have this behavior natively, but it can be added with extensions. FireFox will allow you to set and use a hotkey for this. I believe it’s Ctrl + Tab by default, but it’s been a bit since I’ve used FF.
Depends on the manufacturer of your machine- whoever makes it, they should provide the drivers for your device. A quick google for “make model bluetooth driver” (ie lenovo yoga bluetooth driver) should take you to the manufacturer’s site which will provide the drivers for you- it just may require you to specify the model.
The issue is that USB-C to 3.5mm adapters are built in all different ways- some with a DAC included in the adapter and some without, pinout differences, etc. While it’s possible it may take a few tries to find one that fits the pinout and DAC needs your setup has.
You forgot to disable your TPM keys on the last motherboard before removing it. You can likely reset your TPM system on the new board and wipe the existing keys and then setup new ones, and that should sort the issue out.
I’m seeing a lot of people are reporting similar thermal issues with this chip on a 240, and even some 360mm rads. Most people seem to lean toward 360-420mm radiators for a chip of this thermal impact!
Steam has this function built-in.
There are also non-Steam versions like Moonlight Game Streaming.
Was BitLocker on and did you disable it before removing the disk?
Sounds like an incorrect variant or something- but if that image is not working you will need another or the stock image for your make, model and region and flash back to stock.
Is it happening on Ethernet as well? Sounds like a dud router, especially if it were happening on Ethernet.
I would verify that the power supply exactly matches the voltage, amperage and wattage of the product on the sticker as well as a mismatch can cause all sorts of issues.
Are your GPU and chipset drivers up to date?
Are you running an SSD or HDD, and how full are your disks?
How much RAM and what speed is it running at? XMP on or off?
Toshiba P300 1TB
I would run CrystalDiskMark/CrystalDiskInfo on it to see how its speed is performing as well as the SMART health.
A list of parts would offer some good insight!
Does the issue happen if the tower were plugged into another breaker in your house? Perhaps there’s a grounding or other issue with your house’s breaker on that port.
I’m not entirely certain, but I would think a BIOS clear using the onboard jumper should clear out the secure boot keys. Have you tried that?
It was just sitting in its case in the back of the freezer?
Hmm, I would think that it could work, although some things to consider:
You will really want to let this thing sit as long as possible to allow for the condensation to evaporate. There is likely WAY more condensation inside the device than on the outside. If possible to crack it (the device, not just the case) open without damaging it, removing the back panel may allow for more effective evaporation. I would let it thaw for a week in a dry, warm environment. Even then, I’m still pretty nervous that condensation will probably cause some issues when you boot up- if it DOES boot up at all.
I don’t know how much the battery chemistry will love being at that temperature for so long. It’ll likely need to be hooked to a power-supplying cord while you work. Keep an eye out for a lithium battery that goes nuclear when activated- if the condensate enters the sealed bag the lithium cells are in, you’ll have an instant molotov in your hand. Have a fire extinguisher DESIGNED FOR LITHIUM FIRES handy and only activate the phone in a well-ventilated environment that the phone can be safely abandoned in to complete its meltdown, if the cell explodes.
Buy a Tile or something, I’m begging you!
EDIT: I see it’s an iPhone 8 which is IP68 rated, so you may have a better time against condensation than I thought.