Did you enable it in NVCP for both windowed and full screen games?

Did you turn off V-Sync in Cyberpunk and Jedi Survivor?

There are going to be additional SATA ports on the motherboard. Just get yourself an extra SATA cable, plug your old drive into one of the unused ports, plug it into a spare power connector and just login to the Windows 11 installation on your new computer and transfer the files over like it was a USB drive.

Best practice is to reinstall your operating system but realistically you can just move the drive over and you probably won’t face any problems (and if you do run into problems then you can just go and do an in-place reinstall that’ll keep all your files and programs).

but I’ll probably need to reactivate or install a new license.

You’ll just have to login to your microsoft account and reactivate your licence, Microsoft does this to stop people running one copy of windows on multiple computers. So long as you’re not trying to do that it’s not really an issue.

Most of the time it’ll just show up

If it doesn’t just login to your computer and hit Windows + P a few times, that’ll cycle through the different ways the screen gets projected.

As far as Steam goes you can just tell it where you’re games folder is, after you reinstall it, and it’ll just find all the files (no re-downloading needed).

You can attempt to clone the drive to the other drive using macrium reflect or a similar program. Theoretically it works perfectly fine, just creates a direct copy, but I’ve never had the most success with it.

Also, as far as getting new installations setup quickly, take a look at a package manager like Ninite as it makes getting all of your basic stuff installed 10x easier and less annoying.

Sometimes you get dead drives, even if they’re new. If you checked both ports to make sure they are clean there isn’t much else you can do short of disassembling the USB drive and looking for dead components/shorts.

Combining multiple audio inputs via software is always a bit of a crapshoot, even if you got it working you’d probably have quite a lot of delay introduced by your capture card/PC.

If your end goal is just to get discord audio in your headphones then I’d skip the capture card completely:

• hook the console directly into the monitor
• Get an audio output from the console from somewhere (either out of a audio jack on the monitor, or out of the controller on the console or however you’d normally hook up a pair of headphones to whatever console you have)
• Get a physical audio mixer (you can get 4 channel ones for like $30ish)
• Plug the output from the PC into one of the channels, plug the output from the console into the other channel, plug your headphones into the output of the mixer
• Adjust dials till you get the right amount of audio from each source

If your goal is to capture video with the capture card I’d still do the above, and just add in an HDMI Splitter to create a new video source for the capture card

unplug it, scratch the shit out of one of the USB contacts (or pull it out depending on type of USB) and plug it back in.

If you’re willing to put in more time/effort into this just unscrew the bottom of the keyboard, scratch one of the traces to break the connection and reassemble.

Most of the time this is just caused by there being a bunch of gunk at the bottom of your computer headphone port. Grab a paperclip, straighten it out and clean the port out a bit.

I’m not sure how hot those types of radiators get.

If it gets hot enough where you like can’t touch the side of your PC I’d say it’s a bad idea, if it just gets mildly warm it’ll just make your computer run slower.

Do other devices in your home have access to the internet using the Wifi? As in can you use the Wifi on your phone?

You have to figure out where the actual problem is, is it at your router or is it at your computer. There should be an “internet” light on your router, is that illuminated during the times you can’t access internet on your computer?

Stupid starter question but it’s the first thing you gotta check:

You plugged your monitor into the video output on the GPU right? NOT the video output on the motherboard

Are you sure the monitor works? Have you hooked it up to something else that you know works?

Modern CPUs will basically overclock themselves so you should expect them to run pretty near their thermal limits when under load, that’s a pretty high idle temperature though.

I don’t know that much about liquid coolers, are you sure the water is flowing properly?

This seems like a physical problem to me. I’d personally just remove the cooler, repaste it and reinstall it again, it’s probably on there like slightly cross threaded or you’ve got a big bubble in your paste or something.

Yeah you should just be able to replace the cable.

Your ISP might have put some sort of dampener (I don’t know the technical term for it) at the end of the cable there to decrease the signal strength as that end does look a little thicker than usual but, realistically, you should be fine just replacing it with a regular cable and not worrying about it.

Worst (realistic) case your router/whatever it is on the other side of it might run a little hotter.

Have you tried a new/different display cable?

Besides that weird graphical issues are usually one of two things, either a dying monitor or a dying graphics card. Start with reinstalling your graphics card drivers and seeing if that fixes it.

“Do you think doing this via DDU while the new GPU is already installed can hurt it in any way?”

No

These days unless your downloading “cutedogphoto.jpg.exe” from random sketchy websites, running it and clicking through like 3+ warnings, or your in the habit of plugging random USBs you find into your PC, it’d pretty hard to get an actual virus.

It’s worth uninstalling and reinstalling your drivers now just in case you got some funky compatibility issue, doesn’t hurt any to try.

Most of the time I see issues like this it’s because people get a new GPU, it resets their graphics settings in their games to a higher (ultra Vs low) setting and they don’t notice the higher quality visuals (but they do notice the lower FPS).

Are you sure DOTA 2 isn’t running on higher settings now?

You’ll need a GPU if you don’t get a CPU with integrated graphics.

If you’re really that worried about your GPU dying though just go on Craigslist and buy an old 1050 for like $15 to have as a backup.

Not worth getting a worse CPU because of a “what if.”

So long as whatever card you buy can physically fit in your case you don’t really need to worry about motherboard compatibility.

You do need to worry about power supply wattage though, it’s unlikely your current PSU is a high enough wattage for a modern GPU.