As a test, try playing them with VLC Player.

Some keyboards don’t last long. Given the choice between a new keyboard or a new laptop, which one would you choose?

For consumer and off the shelf PCs I’ve never found RS485 to be supplied. That said the last time I needed RS485 I used some 14 buck USB RS485 dongle.

A few PCs has me add said drivers. But the PC details are missing here.

Beyond that I start with the PC’s drive I want to install to BLANK. I do not format or partition. I start with the target drive BLANK and unplug other drives just in case the install messes with them. I use a bootable GPARTED to get that drive BLANK.

I’ve lost count where it’s the HDD. So many times. Try it without the HDD.

Remember I am not going to be a one browser person. I have a few I can use. That said: https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/142063?hl=en&co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop#zippy=%2Cuninstall-and-reinstall-chrome is next.

There are crash reports to turn on after you complete the steps there.

Tabs. Since no one can guess what’s in the tabs you could have too many tabs or awful code running in said tabs. Time to try other browsers with said tabs.

My first response would be to scan with MalwareBytes. Then I might try turning off Hardware Acceleration in Chrome.

That’s the usual low end PC but we see the HDDs do that a lot. We replace the HDD with SSD and if possible kick up the amount of RAM.

HDDs are not repaired. They are replaced. And yes you can try reinstalling the OS or scanning with Malwarebytes but after years of seeing this issue, that rarely fixes the issue.

Resizing isn’t without risk so before you proceed, backups are made and secured.

We usually can’t resize a drive that the OS is running from or one that has been bitlocked so my method is to be sure the drive is not bitlocked then boot up a tool like GPARTED to do the work. Watch a few YouTubes about GPARTED use before you do this. Also, if you don’t have backups of what you can’t lose, you usually have nothing to lose.

My neighbors Spectrum WiFi did that. Had to use a spare USB WiFi stick to fix it. I don’t try hard on such fixes. That is, no heroics, pull out a stick, try it, if it fixes it, move on.

Which OS? Windows 10 and 11 still allow local logins. Might have to create a local account which is all over the web how to do that. No OS mentioned so I’ll pause here.

I’m going with no since the drive has to be altered to have boot information. Also, if you have no backups you may soon have no files.

Read https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/180qwwd/my_windows_10_laptop_makes_wifi_suck/ where they found something with a Malwarebytes scan.

I’d like to know more about that formatting. Here I don’t format when I want a clean install but remove all the partitions on the target drive then again, I don’t format or partition. I boot the Windows install media and point it at the blank drive. The installer uses that drive and I don’t have to deal with finding the lost space.

Have you tried a new keyboard?

At 4+ years, it’s time.

Have you tried a new keyboard?

At 4+ years, it’s time.

It’s been a while but my last killer network equipped laptop had me jump through hoops to install the latest drivers.

1. Drivers are from the maker, not Windows Update.
2. I had to use the killer uninstaller noted widely. Example: https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops/comments/l25wp5/how_to_completely_uninstall_killer_internet_and/
3. Then I could install the latest from the maker.

Did you test this with hardware acceleration disabled? At the office we found we had to turn that off on some laptops. And of course there’s nothing wrong with the graphics cards but we don’t feel like spending time on this more than we have to.

Rather than a formatted HDD did you try a blank HDD? Sometimes I’ll see this at the shop, run DBAN on the HDD and then proceed to install Windows without any problems next.