Try removing charger after laptop is powered on. If it turns off immediately, battery is dead (or mb part for charging).

You will need to confirm that your power supply is ok. Basic test is with paperclip, but that doesn’t guarantee that all voltages across every cable is ok. If you have backup one, use it.

Fans have almost no oil, certainly not it the amount that will spill all over the computer, more likely it’s aio liquid.

Check every part inside the case, it could be inside any slot (pcie, ram), which can cause short - of course, liquid inside psu is also possibility.

If fan controller is broken, fan replacement won’t help.

Check fan dimensions, replace it with standard fan that will be connected to motherboard fan header and controlled from there.

It won’t work that way. If you want the exact copy of whole windows and all working programs, you will need to clone drive. There are few programs that could do that, but since I am using only hardware cloning I couldn’t say which one to use (maybe make new post about best cloning program for windows).

Another problem with that is difference in hardware, which will most likely make windows to deactivate. If you have license tied to your ms account, maybe it is transferrable, if it is OEM license, you will have to figure something about that.

I really couldn’t be 100% sure about the cause, most likely it is motherboard, but in some rare cases it could be slightly moved cpu (Intel or newer AMD - with lga sockets). Good thing is that it is working, abate 4th slot.

I have seen same problem when windows was prepared on MacOS (there was post few days ago), like some of default drivers was missing. Use windows pc and microsoft media creation tool.

If vram led it on, that is either ram itself, ram controller (on cpu), or motherboard (faulty ram slot) - and all that is probably not connected to your fiddling with drive.

If you have 2 or more ram sticks, try with only one and in different slots.

Is there option in bios to disable wi-fi card? Do it just for the testing.

Get wiztree and scan disk. Windows disk space management is awful.

Chkgsk utility will flag bad sectors so they won’t be used, if blue screen appears again that means that some important system file was on that damaged block.

And think of replacing disk, bad blocks usually tends to spread.

If there are options in bios, disable Intel VMD and Intel RST, then it won’t require drivers.

If disk has significant damage, it will never complete. On the other hand, if you stop it, it could damage windows beyond repair.

In any case, treat that disk like it is not for usage any more and replace it.

Can’t see on your picture, check if m.2 drive is visible in bios at all. If it is not there, most likely it’s dead (other possibility is motherboard m.2 slot is dead/damaged). If it is there, reinstall Windows.

And, your cpu idle temp is pretty high 70°C, check cooler, clean it, replace thermal paste if necessary.

If this is your motherboard, first bios that supports that cpu is 7C51v10 (you should check bios version in bios, with another working cpu). On support page I haven’t found that version, next one listed is 7C51v11 - only one after that, so it should be good; but first check installed bios version, maybe that is not the problem.

Which kind of ssd, m.2 or 2.5" sata?

For uk, here, but ideally you will have to open laptop and mark the exact battery model, and search by it.

All errors could be due to the insufficient space on system disk. You will need at least ≈ 10-15Gb for Microsoft media creation tool to download image and prepare it for windows install. If you can, backup all important data from system drive, uninstall/delete unnecessary programs/games until you free enough space.

Create bootable usb, power off computer, disconnect all other drives except the one where windows will be, boot from usb, delete everything from that disk and clean install windows.

Btw, when you said “hard disks” did you really meant hdd? Because windows 10/11 will work significantly slower od hdd than on ssd (solid state drives). I would recommend getting ssd and installing windows on it (240Gb - enough for windows and usual programs are $20-30).

They are unrelated stop codes (with each other), and that points to common cause, either software (windows), or hardware (disk or ram most likely).

Since windows is somehow still working, backup important things, and do clean windows install (with deleting system partition - all data and programs will be lost).

And for the hardware side, check disk health (hdd sentinel, crystaldisk info, manufacturer app), and ram (memtest86).

Push with small screwdriver through “channel” on the left, there are small plastic tips that are still holding it.