Water damage almost always leads to long-term corrosion of the smaller electronic components on the motherboard, etc. (IE - it’s probably only going to get worse over time). I generally don’t trust equipment that’s ever had water-damage.

I like to think I have pretty good macOS experience (been doing it for about 10 years now)… but there are limits to my knowledge :P … so I’ll just throw some ideas out of things in my head.

• I’d like to think in the Utilities \ CONSOLE \ System Log… there’s some way to Search or query there to see what’s invoking Fans… but I could be wrong ? (I’m googling this now but not coming up with much yet)

• I would tend to believe that Fan-speeds and almost entirely controlled by system-temperatures ? (that an App cannot just request Fan spin-up,. the system would only allow that if Temps start to spike ?)…but I honestly don’t know macOS internals deep enough to say that for sure.

Your temps look fine,. which leads me to think maybe there’s an App or some system-hook running on your system that’s causing this,. but I’m kinda drawing a blank brainstorming how to track that down.

There’s been other questions like this in years past for things like “How do I figure out what App is waking up my MacBook when it’s asleep in my bag?”… and your question seems similar. I just don’t know (especially on newer Apple Silicon and newer versions of macOS) whether Apple even allows you to see what’s causing Fans to invoke at higher speeds. (especially since all the KB articles for Apple Silicon basically just say “Shutdown and Restart your system” (makes it seem like it’s all controlled by Firmware and there’s really no “user settings” for deeper fan control. )

What (exact) things did Apple Support have you try ?

• “Fans running fast” is listed here as a potential thing related to SMC (https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295) … however for the Apple Silicon instructions, all it seem to say is “shutdown and restart” (while plugged into AC Power cord)… “no other steps are necessary”.

• The article here: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202179 … also doesn’t really seem all that helpful.

You got plenty of free space ?.. OS fully updated ?

I paid for a copy of TG Pro (https://www.tunabellysoftware.com/tgpro/) on my M2 MacBook… mostly because it gives me a bit more details about what’s going on. (might not explain “why”… but if you pull it up side by side with Activity Monitor,… it might give you more insight into what’s going on ?.. just a stab in the dark.

That will certainly matter, yes.

• USB-C

• USB-C with DisplayPort Alt Mode

• Thunderbolt 3 or Thundbolt 4

… are all different specifications and chipsets (typically).

The Hardware, Drivers, BIOS & Firmware, etc… are all factors in that equation.

Sounds like you have a 1TB SSD,. that’s only been partitioned as a 200gb drive (and the remaining 800gb is “unallocated space”)

On those types of mounts, the TV usually lifts UP. I’ve seen several different kinds of Locks though

• On some. there’s a cord dangling down behind. The cord is attached to a spring loaded release latch. So you kinda need 1 person to pull the cord while 2 others lift the TV up and off.

• I’ve seen others that have some sort of “release bolt” that you have to unlatch or slide outward a little … then the TV should lift up and off

But yeah,. there’s usually some kind of “locking mechanism” or “retention bolt” or etc… that you have to figure out how to release before the TV will lift up and off.

I think this is a bug in Youtube. It also happens on my iPhone (using the Youtube app)…and if I kill Youtube and restart it and replay the video,. it usually fixes it.

I’m honestly not sure what question you’re even asking here. AppleCare warranty is not conditional up “how it was delivered”.

If it’s “under warranty”,. then it’s “under warranty”. Apple will assess it and let you know what they find and whether the found-damage is covered or not.

Sounds like a job for wired ethernet.

To me,. the relevant portion of this dump is:

"“panicString” : "panic(cpu 2 caller 0xfffffff01e0f3d1c): AOP PANIC - K2-Bosch control channel write failures \n - main(4) - \nuser handlers:\nMoly invalid smp cnt:0, int val:43af\n\nBMP284_SCM gpio cb cnt:269 spurious cnt:0, mode:1, int val:43ae\n\nBMP284::probe=0 [e4 28 0]\n\n\nK2-Bosch control channel write failures "

I googled that and found:

• “AOP PANIC” - https://developer.apple.com/forums/thread/687647

• https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/iPhone_Kernel_Panics#Section_AOP_Panic_K2_Bosch_control_channel_write_failure

You keep adding more and more “updated text” to these descriptions… but the circular wording still seems very vague.

What actual evidence does this person have ?.. Screenshots of anything at all ?

“I think all my stuff is hacked” is not evidence of anything.

“We’ve downloaded every malware and antivirus known to man,”

Again… this is really vague. Specifically which and what programs were used ?.. Do they have screenshots of the Log.txt each scan finishes with ?

With such a vague description… really nothing can be concluded. If it was “something wrong with the Router”,. that certainly would affect all the devices… but it doesn’t prove “you were hacked by some super-hacker”. Could just be DNS corruption or ISP problems or ?..

The most effective and accurate way to fix these kinds of problems… is to get SPECIFIC and CLEAR evidence. If all the supposed victim does is talk in vague circles, you’ll get nowhere attempting to fix this.

Anything is possible,… but the odds of that would make it so close to 0 as to be ridiculously unlikely.

Whatever malicious payload was in the file,. would have had to been designed and crafted specifically to target YOUR system (whatever unique combination of vulnerabilities your system has)

Besides the fact that nobody is really writing TXT files to mass-target random Users. It’s a really inefficient way to do that (because you’re banking on some random User even opening the file).

It’s like asking… “If I see a random cardboard box on the side of the road,. what are the odds it has the exact correct Spark Plugs that would work in my engine ?”… pretty close to 0.

“If I buy a Windows laptop is there a way to still be able to share files, copy+paste across devices, etc?”

Not as tightly as in Apple’s ecosystem,. no.

Apps obviously exist on both platforms (for example if you use Evernote on Windows and Evernote on iPad… you’ll see the same stuff). But that’s not really what you’re asking.

Nope. Storage is permanently soldered in. Has been for close to 10 years now.

There’s a similar thread here: https://ipcamtalk.com/threads/url-for-generic-ipc365-ip-camera-to-be-used-with-ispy.44633/

A lot of people saying VLC is your best bet.

Also a lot of people saying it’s RTSP so it can only be accessed through an App.

What Make & Model of phone ?

“I looked at it and it had this pop up from Amazon saying it had been reported missing or stolen and I had to report it to Amazon and call this number for details”

Can you post a screenshot of this ?

This could be anything from a scam to a genuine iCloud Lock… but it’s hard to know for sure without seeing it.

“Got a new phone for my birthday a few days ago”

Where and how did you get the phone ?..

What version of macOS are you running ?.. there was a glitch in that sub-system a while back and it was fixed in a particular macOS update.

I hate to add to the chorus of “don’t”… but … as a lifelong career IT guy,. this is one of those “hard to win” scenarios. (You can’t really protect people from themselves if they are their own worst enemy)

I’d lean towards agreeing with “get them iPads” (or some other more hardened device that they can’t mess up). I’m not sure what the leading recommendation is for that).

Any Windows-based solution (such as Deep Freeze or other “lock down software” type things)… is going to require some level of upkeep and ongoing matinenance. (especially if you lock it down to hard,. then how to do needed-updates ?)

It’s really not an easily fixable situation.

I mean… if I’m reading correctly,. the DIR-816 is from 2014 ? (nearly 10 years old ?)… if that’s correct and it were me,. I’d replace it.

First thing I thought of would be this: https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HLJV2ZM/B/belkin-35-mm-audio-charge-rockstar