From how things were worded, it sounds like the power cord was only loosely plugged into the power supply, and just needed to be reseated, not an actual power load issue.

hit the Windows + ‘R’ keys to open the Run dialog, and type in “mdsched.exe”.

This will open a tool to scan your RAM to check for corrupted or dead RAM addresses (requires restart as it runs as the PC boots).

After your RAM scan is complete, you’ll want to scan your core Windows files Windows + ‘R’ to open a run dialog, and type “cmd” to open a command prompt.

Use the following command:

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth

Once that scan finishes, open the command prompt again, and use the following command:

SFC /scannow

The DCIM command will check your PC’s system restore partition to ensure it’s up-to-date and that nothing in it is corrupted by checking it vs the Windows Update servers. The SFC command will use your system restore partition to scan your Windows installation’s core files for any issues (hence why you scan/update the restore partition first).

You could try this tweak:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MuXV1urRC8

Which may help.

I’m using an i5-7600K with an RTX 3060, and haven’t run into any real bottleneck issues outside of trying to emulate PS3/xbox360.

Recently the battery in my mom’s Samsung S10e expanded like a balloon, enough to pop the glued-on back panel off of the phone.

While replacing that battery, I noticed the coil in there to facilitate wireless charging looked like a slightly larger loss-prevention sticker.

It’s possible that if your phone has a similar coil, it’s responsible.

The magnet idea from another post might help, as magnetically charging/aligning the coil might change how it interferes with the signal from the loss prevention scanners. (run one pole of a magnet in the same direction over the coil multiple times to magnetize it, similar to how you’d magnetize a screwdriver)

Another thing you can try is getting an EMF or RFID blocking phone case. Hopefully the case will prevent the coil from interacting with the loss prevention signal, thus preventing it from going off.

Can you boot into Safe Mode?

If so, boot into safe mode with networking support (so you have internet), open a command prompt as an administrator and run the following commands:

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth

(this checks your system restore partition against the newest version via Windows Update, repairs any corruption and updates your system restore partition)

Once that is done (assuming it finishes without errors), run this command:

SFC /scannow

(this scans your Windows core system files and checks them against the system restore partition’s copy of them, and repairs any corrupt/modified files it finds)

After the SFC scan finishes, try booting into Windows normally again; hopefully this should fix your issue.