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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: November 2nd, 2023

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  • That memory percentage value is concerning.

    I’m curious what the Committed values are in the details of the Memory tab in Task Manager while playing BL3. There will be two values separated by a /. The left value is the actual amount of memory in use, real and virtual. The right value is the amount of physical memory you have (16GB) plus the size of the pagefile.sys file.

    Let’s address the right value first. For example, if the right value is 24GB, then that means that your pagefile.sys file is ~8GB in size. (24GB - 16GB[real] = 8GB remaining.) We really don’t care much about the actual size of the pagefile in your case. Just letting you know what that value represents in case you were wondering.

    Let’s talk about that left value. This is the single most important value, IMHO, on the whole of that Memory tab.

    If it is close to or greater than 16GB (13-14GB or greater), then you are severely in need of more memory. You can try decreasing the video settings in the game to see if that’ll help. Also, let’s say that left value is 20GB - better make sure that your memory upgrade is going take you considerably beyond 20GB. This is a good “high-water mark” for the actual amount of memory that your computer uses.

    If I were you, I’d greatly reduce the graphics settings (write down/screenshot what you have currently, so you can restore it) in one go. This way you can find out if those graphics settings have anything to do with disconnects. After changing the graphics settings to Raspberry Pi mode :) and you’re still getting disconnects (and memory consumption and GPU usage have decreased considerably - which would be expected), then something else is up.


  • So, the machine just straight up powers off, no blue screen of death, no other output?

    If so and it’s not the power supply, then it likely is some type of hardware problem that’s causing the machine to power off.

    Typically only extreme thermal overloads that can’t be solved by throttling causes sudden power offs. You mention it happened even while idle. While yes, a computer can overheat with a poor heatsink interface while idle, I’d suspect that the thermal throttling should be able to reign in the CPU’s temps without having to resort to pulling the “EPO” feature. :)

    Have you checked to see if the power button might be depressed/stuck or the like? Same with the reset header, though if your computer properly powers off, then it isn’t the reset button.

    If your comfortable (seems like it?) with opening up your computer, you can try disconnecting the power button lead from the motherboard.

    You can use a screwdriver or something similar that’s metal and conducts electricity to short the two pins of the power button on the motherboard to power on your machine, if your motherboard doesn’t have it’s own power button. (My ASUS motherboard has an on-board power button - why I mention it.) Run it with the case’s power button disconnected and see if the problem goes away.

    Good Luck!



  • Not all BSoDs allow for a dump file to be written.

    You can take a look in the event logs, under System, filter for BugCheck and/or 1001 and see if something was written there.

    Some failures are so catastrophic that writing out hundreds or thousands of megabytes of data isn’t possible.

    If you export out that list of Bugcheck 1001 events and post them here, perhaps there’s a common theme. I stress perhaps.

    Good Luck!



  • ChilledMayonnaise@alien.topBtoTech SupportDHCP Error
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    1 year ago

    It’s possible that you have a rogue DHCP server on your network.

    There’s a really old tool from Microsoft that I’ve used. You can download it here - https://www.tachytelic.net/2019/05/detect-rogue-dhcp-server/

    When I tried running it on my computer, it generated an error (couldn’t find C:\windows\system32\wellknownservers.xml, which is OK) and was able to click Continue.

    Once the app is loaded, click on the Detect Rogue Servers button.

    All the found servers will be “rogue” according to this app, because this was designed to be used in an Enterprise environment with Microsoft DHCP servers have to be “authorized”. But this is strictly a Microsoft concept.

    If you have more than one DHCP server showing up, that’s your problem.

    You’ll have to hunt down the other DHCP server in your network and disable it.



  • Did your trackpad work before the USB (re)installation?

    Looking at a screenshot of the keyboard on your laptop (well, similar - I suspect your “36U4” is because it has a Slovakian keyboard and/or power plug), the FN + F10 appears to enable/disable your trackpad.

    Try pressing your “FN” key + your F10 key and see if that re-enabled your trackpad. You may just need to press the F10 key alone too - not sure which is the “default”, the “special function” or the “F” number function.

    You can tell if you need to press the FN key or not, by tapping on the F2 or F3 or F5 or F6 key. These control your volume and screen brightness and you should see a visual indicator of the volume level going up/down or brightness going up/down.

    If you needed to hold down the “FN” key to change you volume or screen brightness, then you’ll need to do the same before pressing the F10 key.

    Good Luck!





  • Do you have any screenshots to post?

    What are the PING RTTs to that same destination at the same time you’re running these traceroutes to, indicating apparent loss?

    Are you experiencing ping loss to Google DNS (also, BTW: a terrible target - but let’s ignore this for now) when you experience “loss” on intermediate hops?

    Do you see greater RTTs on intermediate hops than you do at the final destination?

    Intermediate RTTs along a traceroute one step away from pointless. Especially without seeing the what the final destination’s RTTs are.